Alternative Photography

 This is another darkroom technique that we had the chance to try out during our lecture. Double exposure in the darkroom consists of using 2 film negatives to create 1 image. Once again we used the enlarger, photo sensitive paper and the 3 different chemicals to develop the image which are the developer, the stop and the fix. With the 2 negatives, find the best composition for them to fit together and place them in the enlarger in the desired position. It is important to do some test trips before doing the final images, to annotate the best settings to put the enlarger in to get a great shot. The test strip that we did consists of covering a part of the paper for a short amount of time and exposing. We move the cover slightly more and expose again and we did this 2 more times to figure out how much time the paper needs for the images to develop properly. The test strip can be seen on the left and the the film on the right were used to create the test strip. Once you figure out the...

After the last experimentation the next step was to plan for finals. I like the structure and composition of these photograms but there were some problems with light leaks and chemicals. I will need to try these experimentations again and have the final images improved from here onwards.   As for the photograms themselves, I used glass and my hands, meaning I had someone help me to use the equipment. The settings were the same for all that was tested out last time which would be aperture on f16 and time on 3 seconds which were split to 1.5 and 1.5 seconds. Same as before I would put the glass and expose for 1.5 seconds, leave the glass and add my hand to the desired position and expose for 1.5 seconds again. I wanted a short time like 3 seconds to not get any hand shake, which is what happened when I first used my hands for the photograms.  

I have decided to do my final project using photograms. I liked the turnout of the last experimentation and I got the idea of using glass. After these tests I loved the outcome and the detail that came out using the glass. I have documented the time the paper is exposed for an the aperture used to keep improving. I was leaving them exposed for 3 seconds because I was using my hand and did not want that the images come out too shaky. So I set the aperture to 11 at first but it was too much (Image 4), experimented with 22 which was not enough (Image 6) and decided to work with 16 and it was just what I wanted (Image 3). Once I got the best setting I moved on to experiment in positioning. I did no want the hand to look so harsh (Image 1) and so I experimented with 'double exposure' (Image 2). for this outcome, I put the glass on the paper and exposed it for 1.5 seconds, then I put my hand and exposed it again for 1.5 seconds.  I would like to keep experimenting like image 2 mostly...

The pinhole camera is an age old technique which was used in the very beginning of photography. It consists of a box with absolute no access to light in the box but of a pin small hole on one of the sides and a piece of photo sensitive paper on the other. The hole should stay covered until a scene is chosen to be photographed. When this is found, the hole should be exposed for the image to be imprinted on the paper. The amount of time you should leave it to expose depends on the weather or how well lit it is. It will need trial and error to find the best way to photograph the scene as seen below.  During our lesson we were asked to do a pinhole ourselves. It is very simple, you start wit a box and black it out completely on the inside. you cut a small square where you want your pin to be and then cover it with foil. With a small pin you puncture a whole in the foil. Now the whole in the foil needs to be covered, so we made a sort of cover like a door hat can be opened and closed. T...

As for this techniques I was more familiar with it as we had done it before in previous lectures. It is very simple and there is a lot of room for experimentation. The ones that we did were light painting and multiple exposure. Both of these techniques would require the camera to be on a tripod and to have a long shutter speed. This means the settings would be around f3.5 100 ISO and shutter speed varying from 1 second to longer, depending on how much time you need to produce the image. For light painting you are free to choose any types of lights and experiment with different ones to see their affects. We only had our mobile torches but used different objects to change the colour like a blue glove and a bottle with pink liquid.  As for the multiple exposure we used one light and a remote to use the flash whenever we wanted. So we pressed the shutter while someone did a pose and the other flashed the light, the person would change the pose while the other presses the flash to get d...

 As said by Forbes writer Jonathon Ke ats, György Kepes has created some of the greatest photos of the century without using a camera (2015). Kepes was one of the students that was inspired by the previous artist L ászló Moholy-nagy  when he was teaching in the Bauhaus School in Germany. He has later went on to work at the school himself in the colour and light department. This artist has also created work which he labelled photo-drawings and what he did was paint on glass and place that as the object on the light sensitive paper. I have read that some of the things he liked to work with were prisms, cones, natural objects and eyes.  From first glance György Kepes' work seems highly interesting, just before I read that he makes use of prisms I was completely baffled to how he had such an outcome. He creates visuals that leave you wondering on how he created it and inspire me to try and experiment more. There is not a lot of information to how most of them are ma...